Servoz is a great alternative to Les Gaillands in Chamonix

Want to do single-pitch and super short multi-pitch sport climbing near Chamonix and getting tired of the overcrowded Les Gaillands? Check out the outsider, Servoz, just 9 km southwest of Chamonix

Training grounds

Servoz is a single and short multi-pitch sport climbing crag and is an excellent training ground for multi-pitch newcomers – the routes are low grade with a few middle grade contenders. The total length of the routes are about 30-40 meters and two or three pitches. The lower part of the crag is all grade 3, 4 and 5 according to the French grading system, while the upper section becomes overhanging, serving you a tough and heavy climbing feast with lots of powerful moves – all grade 6 and upwards. These pitches are short, but super fun. We did several routes, where the ‘Directe du fil à plomb’ (4c, 5a, 6b) stands out as the most fun. This is two pretty easy pitches, with a strong, heavy traverse with good holds.

Check out the video below for a quick teaser of Servoz. While you are at it, check out our Youtube channel.

Generally speaking Servoz is a nice place to practice multi-pitch climbing. The crag has several ledges where you can stand and safely set up your belay. All routes are bolted with perfect belay stations. What you should look out for though is that the granite is pretty polished and you might slip easily if the rock is just the slightest wet. The crag is facing southwest so on super warm days pay Servoz a visit during the morning and vice versa on colder days.

Pay attention to the bar

Servoz is small and easy to miss. The crag is only as wide as the parking lot opposite the rock wall where you will find a local bar that serves beer and coffee. Look for that. This is a cozy, little local ‘auberge’ as the French call it. Pay it a visit after climbing.

To get to Servoz take the N205 road from Chamonix southwest towards Les Houches. The road follows the Arve river. Take the road for about 8 kilometers until you see an exit sign turning right towards ‘Gorges de la Diosaz’, which is a nice little gorge with a fine hiking trail. After exiting the N205 continue towards Servoz on the D13 that leads into the village. After about a kilometer or so you will see the bar on the left and the Servoz crag on the left. Park on the parking lot next to the bar.

Final thoughts on Servoz

Pay Servoz a visit if you want to try something less crowded than Les Gaillands inside Chamonix. It is quiet, peaceful place that you will probably have for yourself. And despite of Servoz being a tiny crag you can easily spend the whole day there.

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